There is always going to be a generic cut of suite that changes slower for the person who wears suites a few times a year. But for more fashion oriented cuts, there has been a change for someone that wears them everyday.
Must be a frustrating, expensive, kinda sad way to live life.
I still remember the suits when they had those really tiny lapels and they didn't last. Those people would be out their suit dineros.
Must be a frustrating, passive, kinda sad way to live life.
I suit up when I go to buy a $5 lotto ticket.
Some pants, shirts, which I could put a jacket over for something more formal. Some shorts and shirts for the gym.
Every single one of those pants ripped, to my surprise, because some of them were $150-$250. Some ripped in the belt loops, others between the legs. The dress shirt is barely holding up, there are little plumes of ripped material on the side.
Each time they ripped, I replaced them with something I found for $15-35 at Target. Not a single rip.
I still keep the dress shirt, because it’s the only one I have, and I’m not at all sure what to replace it with.
I dislike the shirts that Target sells because the frame they use is of a long, skinny man, with small arms, and an extremely wide neck. Not sure how the fuck that happened. But the material is perfectly fine.
If anyone knows where I can find a nice shirt (both collared and others for the gym), that’d be great. I’m set on target pants, though. They are indestructible.
Yeah quality of clothing and price are completely disconnected now. It seems the only solution is to get advice from a textile expert if you really want the clothes to last. Or just hopes and dreams.
It's also why I'm very particular about how I do my laundry. Low spin, cold water, laundry sanitizer and the lowest setting I can get away with for drying. Air drying for things that are particularly delicate.
https://youtu.be/fuVU64m1sbw?t=1059 - this whole video is interesting, but the creator explains here about cost != quality
I bought some fake branded tshirts while visiting Turkey. The quality of cotton was better, than original brand sold in UK!
Yes you need elastane to make skinny pants that perfectly form to your legs, but they won't last.
None of them lasted more than 6 months.
Admittedly, I bike and walk a lot, so probably I put more strain on them than I should have.
But, come on, that’s why I got them, and surely if I can bike 20 miles in $30 pants from target, those fancy lululemon pants should also have worked.
As a general rule, ANYTHING that is 100% cotton will last the longest. Cotton blends can be OK, but they have pros and cons (polyester helps with wrinkles and can add some elasticity, linen is good for hot weather).
And then there is general construction. Mass manufactured clothing will not be made to high standards, that should be clear. If you want something high quality, buy a brand where it’s hand made. Or buy a custom designed suit from a private business, preferably local (places like SuitSupply don’t count). There’s quite a few in NYC, not sure about other cities.
That’s high level guidance. If you want to learn how to judge clothing quality, there are extensive videos online that show you how to inspect stitches on fabric, etc.
That said I found some nice small brands and they blow target clothes and all those mall brands out of the water. The mall stuff is often exactly the same as target.
Relwen is my favorite brand right now.
Relwen's excellent. Sturdy clothes with utility -- my concern -- good looking for a variety of semi-casual to formal occasions. I wear their hunting jacket as a general purpose blazer.
Find your sizing in a few not-even-that-good but ok brands that sell enough for used stuff to be pretty common (not JPress, they’re too low-volume—brooks brothers, jcrew, that kind of thing) by shopping at thrift stores. Those brands (right now—both are slowly getting worse) have more consistent sizing than most, so the super power you just unlocked is buying their clothes used on eBay/Poshmark/et c., and shopping their sales online (these brands are down-market enough that they do have meaningful sales sometimes)
Note that these sorts of places don’t just size shirts S/M/L, but also have fit modifiers like “slim” (only slightly fat) and “trim” (not fat—these are jcrew) or, for brooks brothers, names like “regent” or “Milano” that you’ll need a chart to translate (but then you just remember the one or two that fit you well and forget about the rest). Also, in shirts sized by collar, get it right so you can button that without discomfort or a too-large gap, and know that you may need to get the sleeves tailored if you intend to wear it with jackets—this is a fairly easy adjustment, a cheap local tailor can do it, 99% chance it’ll be an Asian woman, if it’s a guy you’re almost certainly somewhere too pricey for that alteration.
Don’t shop “outlets”, they’re mostly not discounted clothes, but worse clothes made for the outlets.
You can do something similar with nice (leather) shoe brands by getting cheap beat-up ones on eBay to dial in your sizing (if you don’t have a store close by—if you do, you try on shoes representing multiple lasts, buy one new pair if you feel bad about wasting the clerks’ time, then buy zero more new pairs from them again), then buy seconds (slightly defective, barely noticeable from good brands) and nicer ebayed pairs.
[edit] oh and measure yourself. Neck, chest, natural waist, high hip, low hip (if something only has one hip measurement, they mean low). If buying jackets, measure the jackets on a crappy one you thrifted that fits well. There are guides for this.
It seems like a lot of work up front, but it unlocks lazy fashion forever. I have great luck blind-buying used and even new pieces from good brands I haven’t tried on, based on measurements (anywhere remotely worth buying from will provide measurements). I almost never shop in person these days unless it’s a thrift store.
T-shirt for the gym works for me ;)
The result is some good purchases, and some bad purchases, but it’s a crap shoot unless you do research. Frustrating for sure.
> But as many hopped onto the hedonistic treadmill in the years that followed
Hedonic treadmill, unless I'm missing a really obscure joke.
Also take into account the generational adoption of older styles for a season or two before it fades again. I just saw a young man the other day wearing ginkos. Haven't seen those since the 90s. I asked him, and he said his dad had passed semi-recently and he really like the jeans when he was going through his dad's stuff.
Yesterday a clothing maker on YouTube I occasionally watch shared a video about making "medieval 1970s mod culture" clothes. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g0uOmf-wHag
She used some patterns last used in the 70s and even wondered if the original dress(es) might still be around.
"Style" is subjective. The artifacts influence future style, and should be recognized as separate but linked things.
I believe he had a fedora, trenchcoat, and of course a three-piece suit. Whole other world.
“Style” can change over time. But having good taste is timeless.
There was a time when men did not have to wear ties to be dressed up. Freedom cannot come soon enough
Sir Topham Hatt in Thomas the Tank Engine is not a joke. That's what railway managers wore.
I just wanna know when we can go back to formal robes. Superior in nearly every way for office work.